Packaged in a deep, dark richness with an enjoyably thick head, the beer washes a nice sweetness into the mouth that quickly gives way to a malty smokiness. The drink is very smooth and far from seltzery, but with a bold body that removes itself from the flatland of texture.

Surprisingly, it’s not very heavy and is pleasingly balanced with the stout, malt, sweetness and smoke. Two of these were just right with the excellent late-lunch at McKenzie’s.